In Lawrence's Footsteps in 2012
For half a century the Hijaz Railway has been closed to passenger traffic, but the authorities are now realising its potential as a tourist attraction. For several years there have been trips between Damascus and Amman, but for the railway buff it is the stretch south of Amman that is the real attraction, for it is the part of the line attacked repeatedly by Lawrence of Arabia and his men. This unique tour offers not only a two day trip on this historical line, but a wealth of other sight-seeing in Jordan to make a truly memorable journey that will thrill historians, train-spotters, and anyone who wants a holiday that is that little bit different.
| Amman railway station | 34 58 07.89N 35 58 06.27E | This is the station in the heart of Amman where our journey commences. |
| The 10 Bridges | 31 56 21.57N 35 57 21.64E | A dramatic viaduct near the centre of Amman. |
| A freight train | 31 47 41.61N 35 58 14.52E | A short train of three trucks pulled by a modern diesel locomotive. A much longer train is visible north of here at Libban station. |
| Jiza Station | 31 42 42.40N 35 57 44.47E | Because of its closeness to Amman, this is a popular station for tourists to visit. Short train trips to el-Qatrana are sometimes available. |
| el-Qatrana Railway Station | 31 14 31.77N 36 02 42.75E | This is one of the surviving Turkish period stations. The sidings are a treasure trove of old rolling stock. |
| Phosphate mines | 30 55 37.32N 35 58 58.94E | Phosphate is Jordan's only natural resource and its export has kept the Hijaz Railway alive. There are larger mines a short distance south. |
| Ma'an Station | 30 10 54.90N 35 45 58.93E | This station was attacked by Lawrence but not captured until the final stages of the war. |
| Great loop | 29 43 38.47N 35 53 01.64E | At this point the railways makes a huge zigzag loop as it climbs steeply towards the plateau. The coordinates mark the point where the modern branch to Aqaba leaves the old Hijaz Railway (hidden under the cloud). |
| Mudawara | 29 19 19.43N 36 01 37.43E | I cannot be certain, but I think this is the remains of Mudawara station, the last before the Saudi border. |
| Wadi Rumm | 29 41 57.36N 35 23 47.31E | This is the Wadi Rumm station on the modern branch of the Hijaz Railway. The railway line runs the length of Wadi Rumm, providing dramatic views on either side. |
| Aqaba station | 29 31 57.95N 35 01 05.37E | This is where we will leave the train. The line continues down to the port. |
Wednesday September 27: Arrive in Amman. Transfer to your hotel in Amman for dinner and overnight.
Thursday September 28: Breakfast in your hotel. Leave for the train station in Amman, where you will enjoy an orientation lecture on the history of the Hijaz Railway, its history and its rolling-stock. Set off for Aqaba, through the desert where Lawrence and his raiders once rode. We stop briefly at Jurf, the first station captured by Lawrence. At Ma'an, which held out until the closing stages of the war, we leave the train and walk the short distance to a Bedouin encampment (with all modern conveniences!) where we will spend the night. The evening meal is a traditional feast of rice and roast meat (vegetarian option available) to the sound of a dabkeh band.
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| The interior of the first class carriage. The first 16 to book get a seat in first class. |
Friday September 29: Breakfast in camp, then board our train for the final leg of the journey to Aqaba. We travel the length of Wadi Rumm, seeing places that road travellers cannot see, and then descend through the awesome Wadi Itm. This stage of the journey takes about 5 hours, so we reach Aqaba in time for lunch, which is a special dish of locally-caught fish fresh from the Red Sea (vegetarian option available), served in a local restaurant. Afterwards we transfer to our hotel for an afternoon of relaxation, followed by dinner.
Saturday September 30: Breakfast in the hotel, then relax on the beach or travel into town to see the sights and do some shopping. Water sports such as snorkeling and diving are available at extra cost, as is a trip to the romantic Pharaoh's Island (Jezirat al-Farun) on the other side of the gulf. Lawrence had immense difficulty gaining access to the Turkish castle on the island, but these days tourists are welcome. Dinner and overnight in Aqaba.
Sunday October 01: After a relaxing morning putting the final touches on your suntan, we travel by coach to Wadi Rumm, stopping briefly at the scene of the Battle of Aqaba, when Lawrence and Auda Abu Tayi defeated the Turks (and Lawrence shot his own camel!) On arrival we enjoy a two hour jeep excursion into Wadi Rumm and watch the sun set over the red sands of the desert, then transfer to your Bedouin tent or chalet in Wadi Rumm camp where we enjoy another traditional dinner (vegetarian option available). Spend the night in Wadi Rumm.
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| The camp in Wadi Rumm. The traditional black tents are for dining; guests stay in the comfortable two-person white tents. |
Monday October 02: Breakfast in the camp, then travel by coach to Petra, where Arab forces associated with Lawrence fought a decisive battle against the Turks. Explore Petra for the day, then relax in our luxury hotel in Wadi Musa for dinner and overnight.
Tuesday October 03: Breakfast in our hotel then return to Amman by coach, stopping at Tafileh, scene of Lawrence's only set-piece battle against the Turks, and Azraq, where the old castle was his headquarters during the winter months. Lunch at the local restaurant in Azraq. Continue to our hotel in Amman for dinner and overnight.
Wednesday October 04: Breakfast in our hotel, then set off on a half-day trip to the "Pompeii of the East", the Greco-Roman city of Jerash, where we enjoy lunch in a local restaurant before heading back to Amman. Those who wish can relax wandering around the bazaar and shopping for souvenirs, while the more energetic can undertake an optional excursion to the Dead Sea for a swim in its salty waters.
Thursday October 05: Breakfast in our hotel, then transfer to the airport for our homeward flights.
Below is a YouTube video of the Hijaz railway further south than we are going to go - down in Saudi Arabia - and giving some of the history of the railway. Enjoy.
Total cost of this tour (excluding flights): $3470
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